Many consider the Exuma Cays to be the most beautiful chain of islands in the Bahamas. These islands are the very definition of “tropical paradise” with turquoise waters lapping miles of white sand beaches and secluded anchorages. The Exumas comprise 365 cays spread over 120 miles. The cays themselves vary in size and terrain: some are low and barren with white sandy beaches; others have rolling hills covered with dense vegetation and small trees. The largest of the cays, and the only one with any significant population, is Great Exuma, which is 37 mi (60 km) in length. The northernmost islands are under an hour away from Nassau by speedboat and many tour operators offer day trips. George Town on Great Exuma has the only airport in the islands, which receives flights from Miami, Ft. Lauderdale and Nassau. Water visibility ranges from 80 to 150 feet, depending on the site. There are a wide variety of underwater opportunities to cater to every taste, including drift dives, shallow reefs and deep reefs, walls, tunnels and swim throughs, and even blue holes to explore. Expect to see large ocean-going fish like sharks, eagle rays, barracuda, along with standard reef fish and invertebrates like colorful nudibranches. Healthy stands of black coral, elkhorn coral, and staghorn coral can be found at numerous sites. A dramatic drop-off runs parallel to the islands along Exuma Sound on the eastern side. The wall starts in about 50 feet of water and plummets to several thousand. The edge contains huge caverns, tunnels, and large fish of numerous species. Just inside the wall are areas of reef formations in 20-60 feet of water. These reefs vary from shallow coral gardens to tall coral heads on white sand. These shallower dives yield hundreds of species from the smallest nudibranchs and shrimp to the larger reef fishes such as barracudas and sharks. To the west of the Exumas, the Great Bahama Bank ranges 40 miles. Only 40 feet deep, these shallow coral reefs teem with tropical fish. The tidal flow creates strong currents between the islands – ideal for drift dives over a mile in length. Some of the more interesting dives include: Thunderball Grotto – This impressive hollowed out island close to Staniel Cay is an underwater paradise teaming with tropical fish, rare sponges and corals. This setting was used for scenes from James Bond’s “Thunderball” and “Never Say Never Again” as well Disney’s “Splash”. Weave through the grotto’s many entrances and passageways, then escape to the outside through its holes. Gaze skyward when inside the amphitheater to see light streaming through the roof where rain has eroded natural skylights. Wax Cay Cut – A high velocity drift dive, considered by many to be one of the finest in the Caribbean. Fly like Superman at speeds of over 2 knots past vibrant corals and sea fans. You will see rays, sharks, eels and numerous fish as you drift with the current in this cut between the islands. The sheer density of staghorn, pillar and finger corals is amazing. There are several other drifts dives in Exuma such as Hammerhead Gulch and Coral Cut, but none quite as impressive as this. Dog Rock Wall – Hundreds of Atlantic spadefish call this spot home. Glass minnows choke the swim-throughs that lead to the wall. Massive black coral trees decorate the wall face. Angelfish Blue Hole – Just off Elizabeth Harbour, rising and falling tides create an ever-moving current through this cavern, attracting a huge variety of fish. The site drops from 30 to 90 feet before entering a cave system best left to certified cave divers. However, the schooling fish and large angelfish that occupy the blue hole are magnificent. Amberjack Reef – A patch reef where you are sure to see a number of different types of sharks including Caribbean Reef sharks and nurse sharks due to the numerous operators who feed them. Large black groupers also ply the area looking for a handout. The Washing Machine – The strong incoming tide takes scuba divers through a narrow cut where water drops off a ledge and then makes a sharp bend to the left. This causes the water to swirl like the water in a washing machine, sometimes tossing scuba divers head over heels. After passing through the cut, divers swim out over a large patch reef filled with typical tropical fish and coral. The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park – This site is part of the Bahamas National Trust, encompassing 176 square miles of pristine diving in which all living creatures are protected. These waters have been managed as a no-take marine fishery reserve since 1986. This has allowed populations of commercially important species such as queen conch, Nassau grouper and spiny lobster to thrive. In addition, sea turtles swim throughout the coral reefs that teem with marine life.
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• With a subtropical climate, you won’t need more than a three-millimeter wet suit.
The girls and I were curious about the Taylors’ experiences and full of questions, which Valerie graciously answered. She told us of amazing shark encounters around Fiji and the South Pacific. This segued into stories about how things have changed regarding conservation of the oceans. Back in the late 1960s, they were breath-holding spearfishing champions in Australia. By the 1970s, they were using scuba and truly saw the damage wrought by spearfishing. They worked to bring about a ban on spearfishing while using breathing apparatus. It was quite controversial at the time, but their background and expertise gave them credence, ultimately ensuring a successful campaign. They are responsible for getting several marine reserves established, along with several species of marine life protected.
Sharks hold the Taylors’ focus and fascination. As a result of their personal observations and experiences with sharks of all kinds, they believe that sharks are not a threat to humans. Because of their films and Valerie’s many letters to Australian fisheries officials, the Taylors were largely responsible for grey nurse sharks becoming the first protected shark species in the world in 1984, followed by efforts for great white sharks, which received protection in Australia in 1997.
Thirty years ago, swimming with dolphins was less common an event than it is today. At the time, a diver would spot one, maybe two, dolphins. Now, the experience can include an entire family unit. Dolphin encounters take place around the globe, but The Bahamas is recognized as one of the great centers where swimming with dolphins is possible. Much can be attributed to the natural beauty of the countless islands and cays in The Bahamas. Wild dolphin encounters occur regularly in Bimini, Grand Bahama, the Abacos and Great Exuma Bahamas, just to name a few. You can touch, interact, and even hand-feed these amazing mammals in their natural habitat. But before you start swimming with dolphins, you might want to learn some facts about them.
